Chrysler to Iacocca--Return Your Demo! Can Detroit Come Back?

This morning, Reuters is reporting that former Chrysler CEO and icon Lee Iacocca will be losing both his pension and lifetime company vehicle as Chrysler proceeds through bankruptcy.

Now, I don’t think that Iacocca losing his company car is any huge deal to him. He can probably afford to buy any vehicle he wants. But, the article did remind us that it was Iacocca who became a visible spokesperson for Chrysler appearing in numerous commercials proclaiming “If you can find a better car—buy it.”

This was back in the early 80’s and had more to do with the resurgence of Chrysler Corporation than did Ricardo Montalban’s pitch for the Chrysler Cordoba with its’ “fine Corinthian leather” in his inimitable accent.

Montalban, like Billy Mays, was a paid pitchman. It was entertaining though. But when Iacocca extolled the virtues of his products, we believed him. He was Lee Iacocca—the CEO, a giant in the auto industry. He was just talking to us on the TV and being honest and upfront (at least in our perceptions). Iacocca was talking about the value of the vehicles made by his company. And that’s where I’m heading with this.

The Detroit 3 are all in trouble. The only one which seems to be steadily working its way out of it is Ford. As we all know both GM and Chrysler are in bankruptcy. Very simplistically the way they’re going to survive and emerge from bankruptcy is through careful re-organization and a commitment to doing things right. A commitment which, quite frankly, just hasn’t been there for a while.

Let’s get back to that value idea for a bit. As an automotive sales trainer, the absolute foundation of sales is this from Zig Ziglar: “Buying occurs when value exceeds price.” It’s that simple. Except that too many sales staff, sales managers, dealerships and manufacturers have bastardized their approach to getting value to exceed price by discounting and rebating first and building value either not at all or as a secondary strategy (i.e. “lookit all you’re getting for a dirt cheap price”).

Back in the day, someone at Chrysler (or their advertising agency) knew this and enlisted Iacocca’s active participation. He was the first of the CEO’s to pitch his own product and no one did it better than him until Chrysler tried to reprise the approach in 2006 with “Dr. Z”—Dieter Zetsche, the Chairman of DaimlerChrysler.

Domestic manufacturers have to first engineer and build value into the products that they’re going to offer to the public. This basic rule is one which hasn’t been done well enough or often enough over the course of the last 3 decades or more by the Detroit 3. Even then it will be hard to get customers to return to their products.

“We build value when we talk to customers about what’s relevant to them,” is the next maxim that I work to impress upon sales staff as a trainer. And, the only way to find out what is relevant is to ask questions. The manufacturers are going to have to ask potential customers some questions about the products they want to own and drive and then work like hell to engineer it, make it and market it.

And finally (bear in mind that this is all in the 1st 10 or 15 minutes of the basic sales training class) as I trainer I cover the ways in which value is built with customers: “We build value when we talk to the customer in terms of what we do more of, better than and differently than anyone else when it comes to ourselves, our dealership and our product.”

Here’s my point. Most organizations don’t train their staff to approach sales in this way and yet it’s the optimal way to do it. Most organizations put the emphasis on sales at the end of the line—after the product is made and delivered to the retailer (remember that’s when the sale is counted by the manufacturer).

Chrysler and GM have an onerous task ahead when it comes to the financial and legal ramifications of their bankruptcy filings. But when all is said and done they are companies which design, build and market vehicles. Ultimately they have to do that and do it well.

What if the Detroit 3 reversed the process? Take a page out of Tom Peters. Put the focus on determining what is relevant to customers about the vehicles they wish to own and drive. Be “more, better and different” than any of the competing automakers when it comes to focusing on and responding to the needs and wants of consumers. And then deliver it to the dealer-body ready to be sold to the American consumer.

As these companies work to emerge from bankruptcy, they are going to have to do things to re-instill faith and confidence from the buying public. Maybe this is the way to go about doing it. And then maybe Lee Iacocca can get his car back.

Car Buying 101: What to do with a Trade-In

Note: See my post from April 20 "Is Now a Good Time to Buy a Car" for the 1st 2 Rules of car buying. http://just-walt.blogspot.com/2009/04/is-now-good-time-to-buy-car.html Rule #1 Start your shopping at home and Rule #2 Shop for your money before you go to a dealership. This post starts with Rule #3.

In car sales, over 80% of transactions involve a trade. Chances are that you’re already driving a car when you want to buy a different one and you’re thinking of “trading it in”.

As a profitability and sales training consultant in the auto industry I have encountered various ways this is handled at hundreds of dealerships. And, in a lot of them it’s not handled very well. The vast majority of customers don’t know how to handle it either.

Rule Number 3: Be realistic about your trade
A few simple steps will help you as you’re getting ready to buy a new vehicle and trade your old vehicle.

Step 1— know the pay-off amount if you still owe a loan balance on your trade-in. This is easy to do either online or by phone. Most loans now have a website where you can access the pay-off amount. You can usually find it by looking at your loan documents. And most lenders have a phone number where you can find out the pay-off. It’s usually automated and all you typically need is either your loan number or your social security number or both.

Know the pay-off amount! It will be critical in finding out whether or not you owe more than the vehicle is worth. And the pay-off is NOT the same as the sum of the remaining payments.

Step 2—get an idea of how much your trade is worth. This is easy enough to do as well and you need to go back to Rule #3—be realistic about your trade. The simplest way is to go online to KBB.com (that’s Kelly Blue Book). This site will open and 2 boxes will be on you screen, one for new cars and one for used cars. Click “go” in the used car box and it will walk you through the process. You’re going to ask for Trade value not for “sell it yourself” or “retail”.

You want to get an idea of what you might expect a dealer to offer you for the vehicle and this will get you reasonably close. If you look up “sell it yourself” or “retail” the difference between the results you get and what a dealer tells you will send you through the roof. Now, whatever the trade-value shows on KBB.com, subtract about $1000 from that amount. This should get you reasonably close to what a dealer will offer you. Why the discrepancy? Here’s why:

“Trade-in Value is what consumers can expect to receive from a dealer for a trade-in vehicle assuming an accurate appraisal of condition. This value will likely be less than the Private Party Value because the reselling dealer incurs the cost of safety inspections, reconditioning and other costs of doing business.”

That’s right off the KBB.com website. Look at the bold phrase. That’s why you will be offered less than what the KBB amount shows. I can’t think of anyone who has ever had their vehicle inspected and reconditioned prior to taking it to a dealer for trade-in. It’s things like 4 matching tires each with a minimum of 40% of their tread or 50% of brake pad remaining. That’s just for starters.

Yes, if the dealership keeps your trade and re-sells it at retail, they will be marking it up several thousand dollars. They may have to spend $1000 or so for it to be ready for retail. But that’s how dealerships make money.

Plus, the dealership has to pay for its facility, advertising, etc. This is part of being realistic about the value of your trade. If the number you come up with is unsatisfactory to you, be prepared to sell your vehicle on your own—and you can put however much or little money into reconditioning and merchandising it as you want. But if you do that, be patient and it’ll be up to you whether you want to wait to buy your new car until after you’ve sold your “trade” or not.

So, if you’re going to proceed with trying to trade your vehicle, have these 2 key pieces of information (pay-off and estimated value) with you. Hold these 2 cards close to your vest because they’ll come in handy later in the process.

We’ll jump ahead just a bit in the process here. Let’s assume that you’ve selected a vehicle to buy and that now you’re going to go inside the dealership with the sales person. You’ve established that you’re interested in trading.

Let me put it slightly differently. In sales training, I would suggest to sales staff that they introduce the “trade” with this “wordtrack”: “Sir/ma’am were you going to continue to drive your current vehicle or were you thinking of selling it to us?” Think about those words. When you’re trading a vehicle you ARE SELLING it to the dealer. They’re not “trading” with you; they’re buying it from you.

One of the things I have trained sales staff to do is to do a silent walkaround of your trade-in, with you present. It’s a technique to “de-value” your vehicle and to get you more realistic about its value. If you’ve done your homework (pay-off and estimated value) you’ll already be realistic. At that point they will need to see your vehicle registration which is also a good time for you to provide your insurance slip as well.

Step 3—Expect disclosure. Once you’re inside with the sales person, at some point he or she will take a bunch of papers to “the desk” or to the manager. Ideally the manager will get up and go outside and “put his hands on” the car, even drive it. Then he will come back in to do some “mumbo jumbo” which will yield a “trade value” or “allowance”. The “mumbo jumbo” involves going to KBB.com or another source to “book” the vehicle. Sometimes if you’re trading another manufacturer’s car it will involve a phone call to a used vehicle manager at a dealership that sells that make to get a value.

Then the manager will come up with a “book” value from which he/she will subtract reconditioning and other costs which should then yield what is known as ACV or “actual cash value”. Quite frankly, this is the true trade value of your vehicle. A scrupulous dealer will show you how they arrived at that figure.

What the dealer of course wants to do is to provide you with one figure (usually a monthly payment amount) for a proposal to buy the car. Often they will also include the “trade allowance”. If that isn’t provided, send the sales person back to the “desk” to get it. If it’s at great variance with what you came up with, ask for the “form” or documentation on HOW they arrived at that figure. You can also request an MMR or Manheim Market Report.

This is a document available to subscribing dealers which shows how much automobile wholesalers have recently actually paid for vehicles similar to yours in your market area. It is arguably the most accurate source for the value of a trade in vehicle because it shows the “real” money that wholesale buyers have paid for vehicles that they intend to recondition and retail.

Quite frankly, if a dealership is unwilling to share with you HOW they arrived at the ACV/trade valuation or to provide an MMR what you might wish to do is leave. There are hundreds of dealerships out there with thousands of vehicles for you to buy. Expect and require disclosure. And, odds are that the dealership will disclose the information once you are insistent that the whole “deal” depends on it.

This doesn’t happen very often anymore, but when the trade appraisal is provided to you, make sure that your keys are returned. Yeah, some dealers still play the game of “hi-jacking” your keys so just make sure that you get them back now. This will also send the message that you are still not committed to “buying and driving today” which is fine. If that question comes up, your answer is simple: “If I buy this car and trade you mine, you’ll get the keys. But let’s concentrate on this other stuff first.” And then just leave your keys sitting conspicuously on the table or desk top.

You want to be satisfied with your trade value, and you also want to be satisfied that if you owe more than what it’s worth that the difference will be accommodated in whatever final deal is negotiated. We’ll talk about that in a future post.

And lastly for today, a little information can be a dangerous thing. It’s as counterproductive for you to take this information to a dealership and act like a know-it-all butthead as it is for dealership personnel to act the part of fast talking, bs’ing, conniving jerks. However, one of my consistent messages to dealer sales personnel has always been that their success depends on the “Golden Rule”: “Them with the gold, make the rules.” The customer has the gold and dealership staff are trying to earn the privilege of getting you—the customer—to part with some of it.